I’m pleased to announce that Hungry Cravings has been selected by The Kitchn as a finalist for The Homies: Best Home Cooking Blog of 2008! Please vote for Hungry Cravings here, and thanks for your support!
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
The Homies
Thank you, thank you. It really is an honor just to be nominated…
I’m pleased to announce that Hungry Cravings has been selected by The Kitchn as a finalist for The Homies: Best Home Cooking Blog of 2008! Please vote for Hungry Cravings here, and thanks for your support!
I’m pleased to announce that Hungry Cravings has been selected by The Kitchn as a finalist for The Homies: Best Home Cooking Blog of 2008! Please vote for Hungry Cravings here, and thanks for your support!
Monday, December 29, 2008
Shallot, Minced
A colleague of mine once declared, “If I could, I would marry a shallot.” While I’m already spoken for, I, too, have a deep love of shallots. These alluring alliums are sweeter and less pungent than their larger onion cousins, and their gentle oniony flavor can enhance a variety of dishes. Raw minced shallots enliven vinaigrettes. Minced shallots sautéed in butter add depth of flavor to sauces, make a marvelous steak topping, and pair beautifully with sautéed mushrooms. One minced shallot can go a long way.
So how do you mince these small and irregularly shaped bulbs? Well, you could mince your shallot by randomly running your knife through it, but that seems to make the flavor more harsh…There must be a better way…
To mince a shallot, use a very sharp chef’s knife or paring knife, whichever you’re more comfortable with. Start by trimming the root.
(Don’t actually cut off the root end, just trim it to keep the little rootlets from getting mixed in with the rest of the shallot later. Also, the root end of the shallot will act as a little handle, keeping the shallot together and making it easier to hold onto as you cut it, especially as you reach the end.) Cut off the stem end.
Peel the shallot.
Place the shallot stem end down, and cut it in half.
Working with one half at a time, position the shallot near the edge of your cutting board (so that your knuckles don’t hit the board as you work) with the cut side down and the stem end facing your knife. Make a series of horizontal cuts parallel to the cutting board.
But don’t cut all the way through.
And be careful to keep your fingers out of the way of the blade.
Reposition the shallot in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing the tip of your knife and make a series of vertical cuts parallel to the plane from the root end to the stem end of the shallot.
Again, don’t cut all the way through the root end.
Finally, reposition the shallot in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing your knife and make a series of cuts at a 90-degree angle to the other cuts, as if you were just slicing the shallot.
When you reach the root end, discard it.
Shallots minced in this manner are relatively consistent, which means they will cook very evenly.
Some cooks like to switch the order of the first and second series of cuts, making the cuts from the root to the stem of the shallot first and then making the cuts parallel to the board. But since the most precarious part of dicing a shallot is cutting horizontally, it really is easiest to do that first, while the shallot half is still intact.
The distance between cuts determines the size of the mince. For a fine mince, make the cuts closer together, and conversely, for a larger mince, make the cuts farther apart.
If this looks familiar, that’s because this very same technique, but of course on a larger scale, is used for dicing and chopping onions.
So how do you mince these small and irregularly shaped bulbs? Well, you could mince your shallot by randomly running your knife through it, but that seems to make the flavor more harsh…There must be a better way…
To mince a shallot, use a very sharp chef’s knife or paring knife, whichever you’re more comfortable with. Start by trimming the root.
(Don’t actually cut off the root end, just trim it to keep the little rootlets from getting mixed in with the rest of the shallot later. Also, the root end of the shallot will act as a little handle, keeping the shallot together and making it easier to hold onto as you cut it, especially as you reach the end.) Cut off the stem end.
Peel the shallot.
Place the shallot stem end down, and cut it in half.
Working with one half at a time, position the shallot near the edge of your cutting board (so that your knuckles don’t hit the board as you work) with the cut side down and the stem end facing your knife. Make a series of horizontal cuts parallel to the cutting board.
But don’t cut all the way through.
And be careful to keep your fingers out of the way of the blade.
Reposition the shallot in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing the tip of your knife and make a series of vertical cuts parallel to the plane from the root end to the stem end of the shallot.
Again, don’t cut all the way through the root end.
Finally, reposition the shallot in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing your knife and make a series of cuts at a 90-degree angle to the other cuts, as if you were just slicing the shallot.
When you reach the root end, discard it.
Shallots minced in this manner are relatively consistent, which means they will cook very evenly.
Some cooks like to switch the order of the first and second series of cuts, making the cuts from the root to the stem of the shallot first and then making the cuts parallel to the board. But since the most precarious part of dicing a shallot is cutting horizontally, it really is easiest to do that first, while the shallot half is still intact.
The distance between cuts determines the size of the mince. For a fine mince, make the cuts closer together, and conversely, for a larger mince, make the cuts farther apart.
If this looks familiar, that’s because this very same technique, but of course on a larger scale, is used for dicing and chopping onions.
Friday, December 26, 2008
Southwestern Flavor
I love the food of the American Southwest, and even if a dish isn’t Southwestern, I can make it taste like it is. Because everything tastes better with chiles. And chorizo.
Split Pea & Chorizo Soup
Printable Recipe
3 tablespoons canola oil
½ pound bulk Mexican chorizo, crumbled
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon pure chile powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon Mexican oregano
Generous pinch cayenne pepper
½ cup beer, preferably a Mexican ale
3 quarts chicken broth
1 4-ounce can diced green chiles
2 ½ cups split peas, picked over
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the chorizo and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, tossing about 2 times, until crusty and brown in spots.*
Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic, chile powder, cumin, Mexican oregano, and cayenne and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, or until fragrant. Add the beer and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula. Add the broth, green chiles, split peas, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 2 hours, or until the split peas fall apart. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf, and skim off any fat from the surface of the soup. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.
Serves 6 as a main course. If you can’t find bulk chorizo sausage, get some links of chorizo and remove the casings. Dried Mexican oregano, which has a unique floral character, can be found at some gourmet grocers and (usually for less than a dollar) at any Mexican market. If you can’t find it, just omit it from the recipe; don’t substitute common oregano.
*Searing the chorizo in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.
Split Pea & Chorizo Soup
Printable Recipe
3 tablespoons canola oil
½ pound bulk Mexican chorizo, crumbled
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon pure chile powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon Mexican oregano
Generous pinch cayenne pepper
½ cup beer, preferably a Mexican ale
3 quarts chicken broth
1 4-ounce can diced green chiles
2 ½ cups split peas, picked over
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the chorizo and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, tossing about 2 times, until crusty and brown in spots.*
Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic, chile powder, cumin, Mexican oregano, and cayenne and sauté 1 to 2 minutes more, or until fragrant. Add the beer and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula. Add the broth, green chiles, split peas, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 2 hours, or until the split peas fall apart. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf, and skim off any fat from the surface of the soup. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.
Serves 6 as a main course. If you can’t find bulk chorizo sausage, get some links of chorizo and remove the casings. Dried Mexican oregano, which has a unique floral character, can be found at some gourmet grocers and (usually for less than a dollar) at any Mexican market. If you can’t find it, just omit it from the recipe; don’t substitute common oregano.
*Searing the chorizo in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.
Monday, December 22, 2008
Always Cake
When I first started dating my husband, I made a huge error in judgement—I baked a chocolate cake for no occasion at all. Actually, I made the mistake of baking three chocolate cakes. It was sort of an accident, the recipe I used made so much batter that I had to divide it between one regular-size cake pan and two smaller ones. I baked the cakes and frosted each one with sweetened whipped cream. When he came over, I fed him cake. And then I sent him home with a cake of his very own…Oops. He jumped to the obvious conclusion: with me around, there would always be cake. He expects multiple cakes, cakes all the time, cakes just for him, to share with no one else. A feeling of cake entitlement. I think he married me just for the cake.
Though my husband wouldn’t understand it, meeting this sort of demand for cake isn’t always easy. So I’ve devised an indulgent and fantastically quick and easy chocolate cake recipe that tastes a lot like devil’s food cake. But my recipe requires no sifting of dry ingredients, no creaming of butter and sugar and eggs, the ingredients don’t even have to be at room temperature. The buttercream frosting’s a snap too.
Quickie Chocolate Cake
Printable Recipe
For the cake:
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the pan
8 ounces all-purpose flour
5 ounces sugar
5 ounces light brown sugar
2 ounces cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large eggs
½ cup sour cream
½ cup buttermilk
1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract
2 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped or scant 1/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips
For the buttercream frosting:
5 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped or 2/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips
6 ounces (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Make the cake:
Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Butter a 9-inch square cake pan. Whisk together the flour, sugar, brown sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the eggs, sour cream, buttermilk, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Combine the butter and chocolate in a small bowl, place the bowl over a small pan of simmering water, and heat, stirring frequently, until melted. Whisk into the egg mixture. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Transfer to the cake pan and spread evenly.
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the edges of the cake start to shrink away from the pan and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10 minutes. Invert onto a cooling rack and finish cooling completely.
Make the buttercream frosting:
Place the chocolate into a small bowl, place the bowl over a small pan of simmering water, and heat, stirring frequently, until melted. Let cool slightly. In a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium until light and creamy. Add the powdered sugar and vanilla and beat until blended. Add the chocolate and continue to beat until smooth, stopping the mixer once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Assemble the cake:
Transfer the cake to a cake plate. Spread the frosting evenly over the top and sides of the cake, swirling decoratively. Cut into portions and serve.
Makes 1 9-inch square cake, serving one husband, or if you manage to hide it from the husband, 9 to 12 other people. Keeps well and stays moist for several days tightly sealed at room temperature. The recipe can be doubled and baked in a 9×13-inch rectangular cake pan—it’s a tight fit, but I’ve done it.
Though my husband wouldn’t understand it, meeting this sort of demand for cake isn’t always easy. So I’ve devised an indulgent and fantastically quick and easy chocolate cake recipe that tastes a lot like devil’s food cake. But my recipe requires no sifting of dry ingredients, no creaming of butter and sugar and eggs, the ingredients don’t even have to be at room temperature. The buttercream frosting’s a snap too.
Quickie Chocolate Cake
Printable Recipe
For the cake:
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the pan
8 ounces all-purpose flour
5 ounces sugar
5 ounces light brown sugar
2 ounces cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 large eggs
½ cup sour cream
½ cup buttermilk
1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract
2 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped or scant 1/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips
For the buttercream frosting:
5 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped or 2/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips
6 ounces (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup powdered sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Make the cake:
Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Butter a 9-inch square cake pan. Whisk together the flour, sugar, brown sugar, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the eggs, sour cream, buttermilk, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Combine the butter and chocolate in a small bowl, place the bowl over a small pan of simmering water, and heat, stirring frequently, until melted. Whisk into the egg mixture. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Transfer to the cake pan and spread evenly.
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the edges of the cake start to shrink away from the pan and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10 minutes. Invert onto a cooling rack and finish cooling completely.
Make the buttercream frosting:
Place the chocolate into a small bowl, place the bowl over a small pan of simmering water, and heat, stirring frequently, until melted. Let cool slightly. In a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium until light and creamy. Add the powdered sugar and vanilla and beat until blended. Add the chocolate and continue to beat until smooth, stopping the mixer once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Assemble the cake:
Transfer the cake to a cake plate. Spread the frosting evenly over the top and sides of the cake, swirling decoratively. Cut into portions and serve.
Makes 1 9-inch square cake, serving one husband, or if you manage to hide it from the husband, 9 to 12 other people. Keeps well and stays moist for several days tightly sealed at room temperature. The recipe can be doubled and baked in a 9×13-inch rectangular cake pan—it’s a tight fit, but I’ve done it.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Special Request
It’s not often that my husband asks me to make something specific for dinner. Most of the time when I ask him what he wants he just shrugs and says, “I dunno, you’re the chef.” Either that, or he suggests burgers. Needless to say, I’ve spoiled him, and the meal planning is pretty much all on me. But the other day, he made a special request for my Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup.
Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup it is!
Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup
Printable Recipe
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 ½ pounds beef chuck, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 pound button mushrooms, sliced
½ cup red wine
3 quarts beef broth
1 ½ cups pearled barley
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
Heat a large, heavy pot over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add half of the beef and cook for 6 to 7 minutes, tossing about 2 times, until crusty and brown in spots.* Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef to a plate. Sear the remaining beef in the same manner and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and tomato paste and sauté for another 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Add the mushrooms and sauté 6 to 7 minutes more, or until soft. Add the wine and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pot with a heat-proof spatula. Return the beef to the pot and add the broth, barley, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil and simmer for 50 to 55 minutes, or until the beef and barley are both tender. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig, and skim off any fat from the surface of the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in the parsley. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.
Serves 6 to 8 as a main course. This is hearty, satisfying comfort food, and perfect for the coldest of days. The recipe makes a lot, but it’s even better the second day.
*Searing the beef in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.
Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup it is!
Beef, Barley & Mushroom Soup
Printable Recipe
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 ½ pounds beef chuck, cut into ¾-inch cubes
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 pound button mushrooms, sliced
½ cup red wine
3 quarts beef broth
1 ½ cups pearled barley
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
Heat a large, heavy pot over high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add half of the beef and cook for 6 to 7 minutes, tossing about 2 times, until crusty and brown in spots.* Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef to a plate. Sear the remaining beef in the same manner and set aside. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion, and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and carrot and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic and tomato paste and sauté for another 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Add the mushrooms and sauté 6 to 7 minutes more, or until soft. Add the wine and simmer for a minute or so, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pot with a heat-proof spatula. Return the beef to the pot and add the broth, barley, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil and simmer for 50 to 55 minutes, or until the beef and barley are both tender. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf and thyme sprig, and skim off any fat from the surface of the soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in the parsley. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately.
Serves 6 to 8 as a main course. This is hearty, satisfying comfort food, and perfect for the coldest of days. The recipe makes a lot, but it’s even better the second day.
*Searing the beef in this manner adds tons of flavor to the finished dish. For everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Excuse
It’s so cold outside that I’m looking for any excuse to crank up the oven. No matter what the weather, the kitchen should always feel warm and cozy. Here's my latest excuse.
Vegetable Calzones
Printable Recipe
1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, drained
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch dried oregano
Pinch dried basil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ pound broccoli florets, blanched
4 ounces marinated artichokes hearts, quartered
10 ounces crumbled feta
½ cup pitted Kalamata olives, quartered
1 recipe Simple Pizza Dough
Combine the tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and basil in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with the back of a spoon. Let cool.
Preheat the oven to 500˚F with a baking stone on the center rack.
Gently deflate the dough, cut it into quarters, and form each quarter into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for about 15 minutes. Toss together the broccoli, artichoke hearts, feta, and olives in a large bowl.
Gently stretch each portion of dough into an 8-inch circle. Place the crusts onto a sheet of parchment paper on a baker’s peel. Arrange a quarter of the broccoli mixture over half of each crust, leaving a 1-inch border at the edge. Top each mound of filling with ¼ cup of the tomato sauce. Fold the other half of each crust over the filling, forming a half circle, and firmly pinch the edges together to seal. Cut 3 1-inch slashes in the top of each calzone with a paring knife. Carefully slide the calzones with the parchment onto the baking stone in the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Meanwhile, reheat the remaining tomato sauce over medium-low heat. Divide the sauce among 4 ramekins and serve the calzones immediately with the sauce.
Makes 4 large calzones. The oven needs to be good and hot for calzones, so preheat it for at least an hour while the dough rises. Be sure to drain all of the filling ingredients well so that the calzones have crisp, not soggy, crusts. I like to use parchment paper rather than semolina for sliding the calzones off the peel into the oven. It’s less messy and absolutely foolproof, eliminating any chance that the calzones will stick to the peel. And if you don’t have a peel that’s large enough to hold 4 calzones, use a baking tray that’s turned upside down.
Vegetable Calzones
Printable Recipe
1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, drained
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch dried oregano
Pinch dried basil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ pound broccoli florets, blanched
4 ounces marinated artichokes hearts, quartered
10 ounces crumbled feta
½ cup pitted Kalamata olives, quartered
1 recipe Simple Pizza Dough
Combine the tomatoes, garlic, oregano, and basil in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally and breaking up the tomatoes with the back of a spoon. Let cool.
Preheat the oven to 500˚F with a baking stone on the center rack.
Gently deflate the dough, cut it into quarters, and form each quarter into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for about 15 minutes. Toss together the broccoli, artichoke hearts, feta, and olives in a large bowl.
Gently stretch each portion of dough into an 8-inch circle. Place the crusts onto a sheet of parchment paper on a baker’s peel. Arrange a quarter of the broccoli mixture over half of each crust, leaving a 1-inch border at the edge. Top each mound of filling with ¼ cup of the tomato sauce. Fold the other half of each crust over the filling, forming a half circle, and firmly pinch the edges together to seal. Cut 3 1-inch slashes in the top of each calzone with a paring knife. Carefully slide the calzones with the parchment onto the baking stone in the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Meanwhile, reheat the remaining tomato sauce over medium-low heat. Divide the sauce among 4 ramekins and serve the calzones immediately with the sauce.
Makes 4 large calzones. The oven needs to be good and hot for calzones, so preheat it for at least an hour while the dough rises. Be sure to drain all of the filling ingredients well so that the calzones have crisp, not soggy, crusts. I like to use parchment paper rather than semolina for sliding the calzones off the peel into the oven. It’s less messy and absolutely foolproof, eliminating any chance that the calzones will stick to the peel. And if you don’t have a peel that’s large enough to hold 4 calzones, use a baking tray that’s turned upside down.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Waste Not
I love Meyer lemons so much that, whenever I cook with them, I can’t bear to waste a single precious bit. That’s why when I had tons of Meyer lemon rinds left over from making my Meyer Lemon & Blood Orange Gelée, I couldn’t just throw them away, could I? So I turned them into candy instead.
Candied Citrus Peel
Printable Recipe
2 ounces citrus peel, cut into 2×¼-inch strips
1 cup sugar, plus more for coating
Combine the citrus peel and 2 cups of water in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, and drain. Repeat twice. Return the peel to the saucepan and add the sugar and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 16 to 18 minutes, or until the peel is translucent and the syrup thickens slightly. Drain the peel, reserving the syrup for another use. Using two forks, arrange the peel in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking tray and let cool. A few at a time, transfer to a plate of sugar and turn to coat. Shake off any excess sugar and enjoy!
Yields about 3 ½ ounces. Try this with Meyer lemons, lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruits, and even kumquat slices. For the best results, be sure that the citrus peel is free of any flesh or membranes before candying it. Blanching it will eliminate any bitterness. Keeps for about a week in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry place. And the syrup that remains makes a lovely sweetener for tea.
Candied Citrus Peel
Printable Recipe
2 ounces citrus peel, cut into 2×¼-inch strips
1 cup sugar, plus more for coating
Combine the citrus peel and 2 cups of water in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, and drain. Repeat twice. Return the peel to the saucepan and add the sugar and 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 16 to 18 minutes, or until the peel is translucent and the syrup thickens slightly. Drain the peel, reserving the syrup for another use. Using two forks, arrange the peel in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking tray and let cool. A few at a time, transfer to a plate of sugar and turn to coat. Shake off any excess sugar and enjoy!
Yields about 3 ½ ounces. Try this with Meyer lemons, lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruits, and even kumquat slices. For the best results, be sure that the citrus peel is free of any flesh or membranes before candying it. Blanching it will eliminate any bitterness. Keeps for about a week in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry place. And the syrup that remains makes a lovely sweetener for tea.
Friday, December 12, 2008
Meyer Lemons
The Meyer lemons are coming! The Meyer lemons are coming! And if you look hard enough, you might even be able to find them now. I managed to find some, the first of the season. I went to four different markets before I found them…I just can’t help myself when a craving strikes…but I found them. The search was worth it too, these sweet and intensely aromatic lemons are a joy to cook with. Their floral fragrance is intoxicating. How I love Meyer lemons, they’re reason enough to look forward to winter.
Meyer Lemon & Blood Orange Gelée
Printable Recipe
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon grated Meyer lemon zest
¾ cup freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice
1 tablespoon gelatin
Suprêmes from 3 blood oranges
Combine the sugar, lemon zest, and ¾ cups of water in a small saucepan. Heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and let cool. Stir in the lemon juice. Measure 1/3 cup of water into a small bowl and slowly sprinkle over the gelatin. Place the bowl of gelatin over a small pan of simmering water and heat until melted. Stir into the lemon mixture. Chill the lemon mixture over an ice bath until just beginning to thicken. This will allow the bits of lemon zest to stay suspended in the mixture. Divide the suprêmes along with their juices among 6 ramekins or individual molds and then divide the lemon mixture among them. Refrigerate for about 4 hours, or until set.
Serve as is, or to unmold, dip the bottom of each ramekin or mold into hot water for a few seconds, wipe dry, and invert onto a dessert plate.
Serves 6. This is a light and refreshing dessert. It’s also super puckery and not for the faint of tart—ideal for serious lemon lovers. I like to serve it with Candied Citrus Peel and a drizzle of Blood Orange Syrup. For a gelée with a beautiful pink color and the perfect texture, add the juices from cutting the blood orange suprêmes, but reserve the juice squeezed from the membranes for another purpose. Can be made up to a day ahead of time and kept covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator. You will need about 6 large Meyer lemons for this recipe.
Meyer Lemon & Blood Orange Gelée
Printable Recipe
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon grated Meyer lemon zest
¾ cup freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice
1 tablespoon gelatin
Suprêmes from 3 blood oranges
Combine the sugar, lemon zest, and ¾ cups of water in a small saucepan. Heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat and let cool. Stir in the lemon juice. Measure 1/3 cup of water into a small bowl and slowly sprinkle over the gelatin. Place the bowl of gelatin over a small pan of simmering water and heat until melted. Stir into the lemon mixture. Chill the lemon mixture over an ice bath until just beginning to thicken. This will allow the bits of lemon zest to stay suspended in the mixture. Divide the suprêmes along with their juices among 6 ramekins or individual molds and then divide the lemon mixture among them. Refrigerate for about 4 hours, or until set.
Serve as is, or to unmold, dip the bottom of each ramekin or mold into hot water for a few seconds, wipe dry, and invert onto a dessert plate.
Serves 6. This is a light and refreshing dessert. It’s also super puckery and not for the faint of tart—ideal for serious lemon lovers. I like to serve it with Candied Citrus Peel and a drizzle of Blood Orange Syrup. For a gelée with a beautiful pink color and the perfect texture, add the juices from cutting the blood orange suprêmes, but reserve the juice squeezed from the membranes for another purpose. Can be made up to a day ahead of time and kept covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator. You will need about 6 large Meyer lemons for this recipe.
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Dang Myun
Dang myun is the Korean noodle made of sweet potato starch. Dang myun’s a flavor chameleon, though it has no taste of its own, it takes on the flavor of whatever sauce it’s in. It turns a beautiful crystal clear once it’s cooked. And it has a wonderful texture, both chewy and slippery, it slides right down.
The closure of my very favorite Korean restaurant, which happens to be the same traumatic event that drove me to recreate their bibimbap, prompted my first experiments with dang myun. I had eaten their bulgogi, the familiar version served on a sizzle platter, countless times. But one day I ordered the bulgogi, and what arrived was entirely different, a saucy dish of tender beef stewed with plenty of onions and those clear, slippery noodles. It took some gentle prodding, the waitress insisted she didn’t know what the noodles were called in English, but she eventually divulged the Korean word. I went to the market directly and bought a bag.
Beef with Dang Myun
Printable Recipe
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced ginger
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ¼ pounds thinly sliced boneless beef short ribs
8 ounces dang myun
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 yellow onion, julienned
4 green onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
Combine the soy sauce, sugar, garlic, ginger, and a generous pinch of pepper in a medium bowl. Add the beef and stir to coat. Marinate for about half an hour. Meanwhile, cook the dang myun in a large pot of boiling water for 6 to 7 minutes, or until tender. Drain, rinse with cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again.
Heat a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pot. Add the onion and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until beginning to soften. Add the beef and green onions and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the beef is just cooked through. Add the noodles and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until they take on the color of the sauce and are heated through. Stir in the sesame seeds and sesame oil. Divide among individual noodle bowls and serve immediately.
Serves 4. When boiling dang myun noodles, don’t overcook them—keep in mind that they are still very chewy even when they are cooked through. Dang myun is available in Korean markets. Do not confuse dang myun with rice noodles or bean thread noodles.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Suprêmes
Have you ever heard of a suprême? No, not the members of the Motown group from the 1960s. But a segment of citrus fruit minus the membranes and seeds.
Suprêmes have a fantastic texture and look like little jewels. Orange and especially blood orange, grapefruit, tangerine, lemon and Meyer lemon, and lime suprêmes all make beautiful garnishes for sauces, salads, and desserts. Add a few juicy suprêmes to any dish with citrus for that special touch.
To cut suprêmes, use a very sharp chef’s knife or paring knife, whichever you’re more comfortable with. Start by cutting the stem end off the citrus fruit.
Then cut off the blossom end.
Stand the fruit on one of its cut ends and cut the rind away from the flesh in narrow strips.
Rotate the fruit as you go.
And try to remove all of the white pith but as little of the flesh as possible.
Continue until the fruit is naked.*
Then, cut each segment out from between the membranes. A citrus segment is shaped like a wedge, so to remove each one from the fruit, you will need to make two knife cuts, one on either side of the segment just to the inside of the membrane, that come together like a V.
Hold the citrus fruit in one hand and cut slowly and carefully.
Continue until all of the segments have been removed.
You can cut the segments over a bowl to catch the juices. Gently pick out any seeds from the suprêmes. Finally, squeeze the membranes into the bowl to extract the remaining juice.
* This same technique can be used for peeling melons, butternut squash, pineapples, mangoes, and kiwis.
Suprêmes have a fantastic texture and look like little jewels. Orange and especially blood orange, grapefruit, tangerine, lemon and Meyer lemon, and lime suprêmes all make beautiful garnishes for sauces, salads, and desserts. Add a few juicy suprêmes to any dish with citrus for that special touch.
To cut suprêmes, use a very sharp chef’s knife or paring knife, whichever you’re more comfortable with. Start by cutting the stem end off the citrus fruit.
Then cut off the blossom end.
Stand the fruit on one of its cut ends and cut the rind away from the flesh in narrow strips.
Rotate the fruit as you go.
And try to remove all of the white pith but as little of the flesh as possible.
Continue until the fruit is naked.*
Then, cut each segment out from between the membranes. A citrus segment is shaped like a wedge, so to remove each one from the fruit, you will need to make two knife cuts, one on either side of the segment just to the inside of the membrane, that come together like a V.
Hold the citrus fruit in one hand and cut slowly and carefully.
Continue until all of the segments have been removed.
You can cut the segments over a bowl to catch the juices. Gently pick out any seeds from the suprêmes. Finally, squeeze the membranes into the bowl to extract the remaining juice.
* This same technique can be used for peeling melons, butternut squash, pineapples, mangoes, and kiwis.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Blood Oranges
Blood orange season has arrived! Have you ever had a blood orange before? Their flesh is a deep garnet color and juicy and luscious, with hints of berries and red wine. So intoxicating.
And so different from any other type of orange, it’s hard to believe that they’re even in the same category. For me it was love at first taste. It was in California during citrus season, and I greedily bought up way more blood oranges than we could possibly eat fresh. That’s when I was inspired to create Blood Orange Syrup.
Blood Orange Syrup*
Printable Recipe
1 ½ cups freshly squeezed blood orange juice
Strain the juice through a fine mesh sieve into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes, or until thickened and slightly syrupy.
Yields about 1/3 cup. Don’t let the simplicity of this recipe fool you, it’s a party for your taste buds. The jewel-like color, super-concentrated flavor, and balance of sweet, sour, and bitter make it wonderful drizzled on everything from duck salad rolls to crêpes to vanilla ice cream, which is luscious in a dreamsicle sort of way. Also perfect in mixed drinks and delicious blended with maple syrup for serving over pancakes, waffles, and French toast. Though this syrup is so intensely tasty I could drink it straight up, a tiny bit goes a long way. Keeps for about a week tightly sealed in the refrigerator.
*For a related Duck Breasts with Blood Orange Sauce recipe and everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.
And so different from any other type of orange, it’s hard to believe that they’re even in the same category. For me it was love at first taste. It was in California during citrus season, and I greedily bought up way more blood oranges than we could possibly eat fresh. That’s when I was inspired to create Blood Orange Syrup.
Blood Orange Syrup*
Printable Recipe
1 ½ cups freshly squeezed blood orange juice
Strain the juice through a fine mesh sieve into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes, or until thickened and slightly syrupy.
Yields about 1/3 cup. Don’t let the simplicity of this recipe fool you, it’s a party for your taste buds. The jewel-like color, super-concentrated flavor, and balance of sweet, sour, and bitter make it wonderful drizzled on everything from duck salad rolls to crêpes to vanilla ice cream, which is luscious in a dreamsicle sort of way. Also perfect in mixed drinks and delicious blended with maple syrup for serving over pancakes, waffles, and French toast. Though this syrup is so intensely tasty I could drink it straight up, a tiny bit goes a long way. Keeps for about a week tightly sealed in the refrigerator.
*For a related Duck Breasts with Blood Orange Sauce recipe and everything you ever wanted to know about searing, plus dozens of fabulous searing recipes, look for my book Seared to Perfection in stores in the fall of 2010.
Friday, November 28, 2008
Serving of Fruit
Don’t think of it as dessert, think of it as a way to get one of your daily servings of fruit.
Pears Poached in Port
Printable Recipe
1 750-milliliter bottle ruby port
1 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
2 cloves
2 strips lemon zest
1 strip orange zest
1 vanilla bean
6 Bosc pears, ripe but firm
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Combine the port, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, lemon zest, and orange zest in a small nonreactive pot. Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, scrape out the seeds, and add both the pod and the seeds to the pot. Heat until the sugar dissolves. Peel the pears and core them through the blossom end with a melon baller, leaving the stem end intact. Add the pears to the pot and drape them with a piece of cheesecloth. Bring to a boil and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes, or until tender. Using a slotted spoon, remove the pears to a plate. Boil the poaching liquid another 14 to 16 minutes, or until thickened and slightly syrupy. Stir in the lemon juice, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and let cool slightly. Arrange the pears on individual plates, drizzle with the sauce, and serve immediately.
Serves 6. May be served warm or at room temperature. Perfect with gingersnap cookies. To obtain strips of zest from a lemon and an orange, simply use a vegetable peeler. The cheesecloth will keep the pears completely submerged beneath the poaching liquid so that they cook and color evenly. Leftover sauce, should you have any, is fantastic over ice cream.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Capers
My first encounter with a caper was not an altogether pleasant one. It was my first time working in a fancy restaurant. I couldn’t believe that I had actually gotten the job, I had no idea what I was doing, and I was insecure about it, too. The chef asked me to make the rémoulade for the calamari. I had never heard of rémoulade. The long list of ingredients included capers, and, of course, I had never hear of them either. I remember my curiosity at the new ingredient, seeing them swimming in their greenish liquid—were they animal, vegetable, or mineral? I remember the moment I opened the big jar, sticking my nose deep inside, taking a big whiff, and recoiling in disgust at the pungent, vinegary smell. I remember glancing around me to see if anyone had noticed. And then I remember punching the button on the food processor hard, until the capers became an indistinguishable part of that strange sauce, until they disappeared completely. What I don’t remember is tasting the rémoulade.
I think the first time I actually tasted a caper was in turkey piccata. Given my one and only previous experience with capers, I was pretty apprehensive to try it. But a coworker’s exclamation, “Oh, I love piccata!” was enough to convince me. Along with a perfectly reasonable explanation that a caper’s nothing but a pickled flour bud.
Now, I always keep a big jar of capers on hand. I put them in salad dressings and pasta sauces, and they’re a fantastic substitute for pickles or pickle relish in potato salads, pasta salads, and tuna salads. Now, capers are one of my favorite ingredients.
Chicken Piccata
Printable Recipe
2 8-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup white wine
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
Gently pound out the chicken breasts to an even thickness with a meat pounder. Season generously with salt and pepper. Dip into the flour to coat and shake off any excess. Heat a large, heavy sauté pan over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken breasts skinned side down and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Using tongs, turn the chicken breasts and continue to sauté another 3 to 4 minutes, or until just cooked through. The chicken breasts will be firm to the touch and the juices will run clear when they are just cooked through. Remove the chicken breasts to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm.
Add the wine, lemon juice, and capers to the pan and simmer, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until thickened and saucy. Add the parsley. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for a minute or two. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter quickly, stir in any accumulated juices from the chicken breasts, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the chicken breasts to the pan and turn to coat with the sauce. Arrange the chicken breasts on individual plates, divide the sauce among them, and serve immediately.
Serves 2 very hungry people. Lovely on a bed of angel hair pasta. For 4 smaller portions, pound out the chicken breasts, cut each breast in half, and proceed with the recipe as directed. The recipe may be doubled, but the sauce will take a little more time to reduce. Also delicious with scaloppine of veal, pork, or even turkey.
I think the first time I actually tasted a caper was in turkey piccata. Given my one and only previous experience with capers, I was pretty apprehensive to try it. But a coworker’s exclamation, “Oh, I love piccata!” was enough to convince me. Along with a perfectly reasonable explanation that a caper’s nothing but a pickled flour bud.
Now, I always keep a big jar of capers on hand. I put them in salad dressings and pasta sauces, and they’re a fantastic substitute for pickles or pickle relish in potato salads, pasta salads, and tuna salads. Now, capers are one of my favorite ingredients.
Chicken Piccata
Printable Recipe
2 8-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup white wine
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
Gently pound out the chicken breasts to an even thickness with a meat pounder. Season generously with salt and pepper. Dip into the flour to coat and shake off any excess. Heat a large, heavy sauté pan over medium heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken breasts skinned side down and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Using tongs, turn the chicken breasts and continue to sauté another 3 to 4 minutes, or until just cooked through. The chicken breasts will be firm to the touch and the juices will run clear when they are just cooked through. Remove the chicken breasts to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm.
Add the wine, lemon juice, and capers to the pan and simmer, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a heat-proof spatula, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until thickened and saucy. Add the parsley. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for a minute or two. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter quickly, stir in any accumulated juices from the chicken breasts, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return the chicken breasts to the pan and turn to coat with the sauce. Arrange the chicken breasts on individual plates, divide the sauce among them, and serve immediately.
Serves 2 very hungry people. Lovely on a bed of angel hair pasta. For 4 smaller portions, pound out the chicken breasts, cut each breast in half, and proceed with the recipe as directed. The recipe may be doubled, but the sauce will take a little more time to reduce. Also delicious with scaloppine of veal, pork, or even turkey.
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Apples
For some reason, I didn’t like cooked fruit when I was little. I liked it fine raw, just not cooked. I especially hated cooked apples. Not a single bite of cooked apple would pass these lips. I thought apple pie wasn’t worth eating, baked apples were yucky, apple sauce was gross, and stewed apples would just about make me cry. But my first bite of tarte tatin changed all of that.
Tarte Tatin
Printable Recipe
8 large Golden Delicious apples, peeled, halved, and cored
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
1/3 cup water
1 8 to 9-ounce sheet puff pastry dough
Toss together the apples and lemon juice in a large bowl. Combine the sugar, butter, and water in a tarte tatin pan or a 10-inch, heavy sauté pan. Bring to a boil, brush down the sides of the pan with water, and boil for 10 to 12 minutes, or until caramelized. The sugar will be fragrant and a deep amber color when it is caramelized. Immediately add the apples cut side up, arranging them in neat overlapping circles.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the apples are tender.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425ºF. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to an 11-inch square and cut out an 11-inch circle. Transfer the circle to a plate, reserving the scraps for another use, and refrigerate.
Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for about 5 minutes. Top the apples with the pastry circle, tucking it in around the edges, and cut a 1-inch X in the center. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 22 to 24 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Let cool for about 5 minutes and, using pot holders, carefully invert onto a serving platter. Let cool slightly, cut into portions, and serve.
Makes 1 10-inch tart, serving 8. Spectacular in the fall, when apples are at their best. And, of course, caramel is good in any season. Frozen puff pastry works perfectly, just thaw it in the refrigerator, not at room temperature. Golden Delicious apples are my favorite for this recipe, they keep their shape once cooked, and they taste silky and buttery. Be very careful when adding the apples to the caramel in the pan—caramel is extremely hot, and it will bubble up on contact with the apples. I like to cook the apples on the stovetop for quite a bit longer than usual, so that the all of the juices the apples exude have enough time to cook down. This method ensures that the crust does not become soggy once the tart is inverted.
Tarte Tatin
Printable Recipe
8 large Golden Delicious apples, peeled, halved, and cored
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cup sugar
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
1/3 cup water
1 8 to 9-ounce sheet puff pastry dough
Toss together the apples and lemon juice in a large bowl. Combine the sugar, butter, and water in a tarte tatin pan or a 10-inch, heavy sauté pan. Bring to a boil, brush down the sides of the pan with water, and boil for 10 to 12 minutes, or until caramelized. The sugar will be fragrant and a deep amber color when it is caramelized. Immediately add the apples cut side up, arranging them in neat overlapping circles.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the apples are tender.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425ºF. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to an 11-inch square and cut out an 11-inch circle. Transfer the circle to a plate, reserving the scraps for another use, and refrigerate.
Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for about 5 minutes. Top the apples with the pastry circle, tucking it in around the edges, and cut a 1-inch X in the center. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 22 to 24 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Let cool for about 5 minutes and, using pot holders, carefully invert onto a serving platter. Let cool slightly, cut into portions, and serve.
Makes 1 10-inch tart, serving 8. Spectacular in the fall, when apples are at their best. And, of course, caramel is good in any season. Frozen puff pastry works perfectly, just thaw it in the refrigerator, not at room temperature. Golden Delicious apples are my favorite for this recipe, they keep their shape once cooked, and they taste silky and buttery. Be very careful when adding the apples to the caramel in the pan—caramel is extremely hot, and it will bubble up on contact with the apples. I like to cook the apples on the stovetop for quite a bit longer than usual, so that the all of the juices the apples exude have enough time to cook down. This method ensures that the crust does not become soggy once the tart is inverted.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Comfort Food
No other food reminds me of my grandmother as much as matzoh balls. It’s funny, Baba wasn’t even known for her matzoh balls—she didn’t make them all that often, and when she did, my grandfather and I had a fantastic time teasing her because, though they were delicious and light and fluffy, her matzoh balls looked more like to matzoh blobs. Still, to this day, matzoh balls give me that warm, fuzzy feeling, just like Baba always did. Try them some chilly evening, you’ll feel as if you’ve just gotten a big, warm hug. Now that’s what I call comfort food.
Matzoh Balls in Broth
Printable Recipe
2 large eggs, at room temperature
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup matzoh meal
Generous pinch baking powder
1 quart chicken broth
Whisk together the eggs, butter, water, salt, and a generous pinch of pepper in a large bowl. Mix together the matzoh meal and baking powder in a small bowl. Stir the matzoh meal mixture into the egg mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about an hour, or until chilled. Divide the mixture into 6 portions and form each portion into a ball. Arrange on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for another 15 minutes, or until firm.
Bring the broth to a simmer in a small pot. Add the matzoh balls and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes, or until tender and cooked through. Ladle into individual bowls and serve immediately.
Makes 2 generous servings. For a more substantial meal, add diced celery and carrots to the broth and simmer until tender before adding the matzoh balls. And add a bit of shredded cooked chicken near the end of the cooking time. This recipe can be doubled.
Matzoh Balls in Broth
Printable Recipe
2 large eggs, at room temperature
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon water
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup matzoh meal
Generous pinch baking powder
1 quart chicken broth
Whisk together the eggs, butter, water, salt, and a generous pinch of pepper in a large bowl. Mix together the matzoh meal and baking powder in a small bowl. Stir the matzoh meal mixture into the egg mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about an hour, or until chilled. Divide the mixture into 6 portions and form each portion into a ball. Arrange on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for another 15 minutes, or until firm.
Bring the broth to a simmer in a small pot. Add the matzoh balls and simmer, covered, for about 20 minutes, or until tender and cooked through. Ladle into individual bowls and serve immediately.
Makes 2 generous servings. For a more substantial meal, add diced celery and carrots to the broth and simmer until tender before adding the matzoh balls. And add a bit of shredded cooked chicken near the end of the cooking time. This recipe can be doubled.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Not Pumpkin Pie
I confess, I don’t like pumpkin pie. Even if I liked pumpkin pie, I couldn’t possibly eat a whole slice after Thanksgiving dinner, unless I wanted to know what the stuffed turkey felt like.
Pumpkin Crème Brûlées
Printable Recipe
2 ½ cups heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
6 ounces pumpkin puree
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup Turbinado sugar
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Heat the cream to a simmer in a small saucepan. Whisk together the yolks and sugar in a medium bowl. Continue whisking while adding the hot cream in a thin stream. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Stir in the pumpkin, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt and skim off any foam from the surface. Divide the mixture among 8 crème brûlée dishes and place them into a roasting pan. Add enough hot water to the roasting pan to come half way up the sides of the crème brûlée dishes and bake for 22 to 24 minutes, or until just set. Remove from the water bath and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours, or until firm.
Top 1 crème brûlée with 1 ½ teaspoons of the Turbinado sugar and swirl to coat. Caramelize the sugar with a culinary torch. Finish the remaining crème brûlées with the remaining Turbinado sugar in the same manner. Serve immediately.
Serves 8. Canned pumpkin puree is perfect for this recipe. You can tell that the crème brûlées are done when they jiggle like gelatin. If you don’t have crème brûlée dishes, you can use ramekins, but they will take slightly longer to bake. And if you don’t have a culinary torch, you can caramelize the sugar topping under a preheated broiler. Crème brûlées may be baked a day or two in advance and kept covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator. Add Turbinado sugar and caramelize just before serving.
Pumpkin Crème Brûlées
Printable Recipe
2 ½ cups heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
1/3 cup sugar
6 ounces pumpkin puree
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¾ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup Turbinado sugar
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Heat the cream to a simmer in a small saucepan. Whisk together the yolks and sugar in a medium bowl. Continue whisking while adding the hot cream in a thin stream. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Stir in the pumpkin, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt and skim off any foam from the surface. Divide the mixture among 8 crème brûlée dishes and place them into a roasting pan. Add enough hot water to the roasting pan to come half way up the sides of the crème brûlée dishes and bake for 22 to 24 minutes, or until just set. Remove from the water bath and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours, or until firm.
Top 1 crème brûlée with 1 ½ teaspoons of the Turbinado sugar and swirl to coat. Caramelize the sugar with a culinary torch. Finish the remaining crème brûlées with the remaining Turbinado sugar in the same manner. Serve immediately.
Serves 8. Canned pumpkin puree is perfect for this recipe. You can tell that the crème brûlées are done when they jiggle like gelatin. If you don’t have crème brûlée dishes, you can use ramekins, but they will take slightly longer to bake. And if you don’t have a culinary torch, you can caramelize the sugar topping under a preheated broiler. Crème brûlées may be baked a day or two in advance and kept covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator. Add Turbinado sugar and caramelize just before serving.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Quick Roasted
Crispy and savory and golden brown and delicious, this is. High heat does amazing stuff. It won’t be long before your steamer starts to feel neglected.
Quick Roasted Broccoli & Cauliflower
Printable Recipe
12 ounces broccoli florets
12 ounces cauliflower florets
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 450˚F. Toss together the broccoli, cauliflower, and oil in a large bowl, making sure that the florets are evenly coated. Season generously with salt and pepper. Spread on a baking tray and roast for about 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer to a bowl and serve immediately.
Serves 6. For the best results, be sure not to overcrowd the pan. If you like, drizzle with freshly squeezed lemon juice before serving.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Thanksgiving Menu
Everybody already wants to know what’s on the Thanksgiving dinner menu. Will it be turkey, duck, or game hens? A pumpkin mousse tart or Pumpkin Crème Brûlées? I haven’t decided yet. The only thing I know for sure is, I want a traditional dressing. In fact, I’ve been craving my traditional dressing so much that I just couldn’t wait until Thanksgiving to have some. So I made it for dinner last night, it was the perfect accompaniment to a roast chicken. The aroma of sage is still in the air.
Traditional Sourdough Dressing
Printable Recipe
1 1-pound loaf sourdough bread, cut into ¾-inch cubes
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the baking dish
1 large yellow onion, diced
4 stalks celery, diced
1 large green bell pepper, diced
4 to 6 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup minced fresh sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
3 large eggs
2 ¾ cups chicken broth
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Spread the bread cubes on a baking tray and bake for about 35 minutes, or until lightly toasted and dry. Meanwhile, heat a large, heavy sauté pan over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the oil and butter and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the onion and sauté for 6 to 7 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and bell pepper and sauté for another 6 to 7 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic, sage, and thyme and stir for a minute or so until fragrant. Let cool.
Butter a 9×13-inch baking dish. Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl. Add the broth and stir to combine. Mix together the bread cubes, vegetable mixture, broth mixture, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a large bowl until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Transfer to the baking dish and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 40 minutes. Uncover, increase the temperature to 425˚F, and bake for another 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve immediately or cover and keep warm for as long as an hour.
Serves 8 to 10. Also delicious with the addition of sautéed mushrooms, oysters, or browned breakfast sausage crumbles. May be prepared up to a day in advance and kept refrigerated. Remove from the refrigerator about an hour before baking.
Traditional Sourdough Dressing
Printable Recipe
1 1-pound loaf sourdough bread, cut into ¾-inch cubes
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the baking dish
1 large yellow onion, diced
4 stalks celery, diced
1 large green bell pepper, diced
4 to 6 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup minced fresh sage
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
3 large eggs
2 ¾ cups chicken broth
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Spread the bread cubes on a baking tray and bake for about 35 minutes, or until lightly toasted and dry. Meanwhile, heat a large, heavy sauté pan over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the oil and butter and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the onion and sauté for 6 to 7 minutes, or until soft. Add the celery and bell pepper and sauté for another 6 to 7 minutes, or until soft. Add the garlic, sage, and thyme and stir for a minute or so until fragrant. Let cool.
Butter a 9×13-inch baking dish. Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl. Add the broth and stir to combine. Mix together the bread cubes, vegetable mixture, broth mixture, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a large bowl until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Transfer to the baking dish and cover tightly with foil. Bake for 40 minutes. Uncover, increase the temperature to 425˚F, and bake for another 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve immediately or cover and keep warm for as long as an hour.
Serves 8 to 10. Also delicious with the addition of sautéed mushrooms, oysters, or browned breakfast sausage crumbles. May be prepared up to a day in advance and kept refrigerated. Remove from the refrigerator about an hour before baking.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Cutting Onions: Dice & Chop
How do you keep from crying when you chop an onion? I’ve heard of all sorts of creative suggestions: soak it, refrigerate it, chew gum, turn on a fan, keep your mouth shut, burn a candle, hold a match between your lips—I wonder if you’re supposed to light it first, wear goggles—how fashionable, or cut it under water—sounds slippery, which is scary when there’s a knife involved, and I don’t think that my cutting board would fit into the sink anyhow. Oh wait…maybe they mean underwater like in a swimming pool…now the goggles are starting to make sense…riiight. Did I say creative suggestions? I think I meant silly or questionable or downright absurd. So here’s my suggestion: learn how to chop an onion like the pros, quickly and efficiently and with a sharp knife. You won’t shed a tear. And, OK, I’ll admit that refrigerating onions does help a bit too.
To dice, or chop, an onion, start by trimming the root.
(Don’t actually cut off the root end, just trim it to keep the little rootlets from getting mixed in with the rest of the onion later. Also, the root end of the onion will act as a little handle, keeping the onion together and making it easier to hold onto as you cut it, especially as you reach the end.) Cut off the stem end.
Peel the onion.
Place the onion stem end down, and cut it in half.
Working with one half at a time, position the onion near the edge of your cutting board (so that your knuckles don’t hit the board as you work) with the cut side down and the stem end facing your knife. Make a series of horizontal cuts parallel to the cutting board.
But don’t cut all the way through.
And be careful to keep your fingers out of the way of the blade.
Reposition the onion in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing the tip of your knife and make a series of vertical cuts parallel to the plane from the root end to the stem end of the onion.
Again, don’t cut all the way through the root end.
Finally, reposition the onion in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing your knife and make a series of cuts at a 90-degree angle to the other cuts, as if you were just slicing the onion.
When you reach the root end, discard it.
Onions diced in this manner are relatively consistent, which means they will cook very evenly.
Some cooks like to switch the order of the first and second series of cuts, making the cuts from the root to the stem of the onion first and then making the cuts parallel to the board. But since the most precarious part of dicing an onion is cutting horizontally, it really is easiest to do that first, while the onion half is still intact.
The distance between cuts determines the size of the dice.
For a fine dice, make the cuts closer together, and conversely, for a large dice, make the cuts farther apart. A fresh salsa is great with finely diced onions. A medium dice is usually a good choice for sautéing. Onions cut into a large dice are best for roasting, stewing, and even stir-frying.
This very same technique, but of course on a smaller scale, is used for mincing shallots.
Click here for information on how to slice and julienne onions.
To dice, or chop, an onion, start by trimming the root.
(Don’t actually cut off the root end, just trim it to keep the little rootlets from getting mixed in with the rest of the onion later. Also, the root end of the onion will act as a little handle, keeping the onion together and making it easier to hold onto as you cut it, especially as you reach the end.) Cut off the stem end.
Peel the onion.
Place the onion stem end down, and cut it in half.
Working with one half at a time, position the onion near the edge of your cutting board (so that your knuckles don’t hit the board as you work) with the cut side down and the stem end facing your knife. Make a series of horizontal cuts parallel to the cutting board.
But don’t cut all the way through.
And be careful to keep your fingers out of the way of the blade.
Reposition the onion in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing the tip of your knife and make a series of vertical cuts parallel to the plane from the root end to the stem end of the onion.
Again, don’t cut all the way through the root end.
Finally, reposition the onion in the center of your cutting board with the stem end facing your knife and make a series of cuts at a 90-degree angle to the other cuts, as if you were just slicing the onion.
When you reach the root end, discard it.
Onions diced in this manner are relatively consistent, which means they will cook very evenly.
Some cooks like to switch the order of the first and second series of cuts, making the cuts from the root to the stem of the onion first and then making the cuts parallel to the board. But since the most precarious part of dicing an onion is cutting horizontally, it really is easiest to do that first, while the onion half is still intact.
The distance between cuts determines the size of the dice.
For a fine dice, make the cuts closer together, and conversely, for a large dice, make the cuts farther apart. A fresh salsa is great with finely diced onions. A medium dice is usually a good choice for sautéing. Onions cut into a large dice are best for roasting, stewing, and even stir-frying.
This very same technique, but of course on a smaller scale, is used for mincing shallots.
Click here for information on how to slice and julienne onions.